Monday, October 29, 2007

My Obituary for UCLA Football

(Originally posted on LAist on October 29)

Bruin football, what went wrong?Strangely, I’m OK with it.

I mean, I’m NOT OK with it. I’m full of fury, anguish, and despair. But more than that, I feel resignation. I’m tired. And I’ve come to terms with all of it.

UCLA football is dead to me.

It’s not that I’m disowning the program. I’m still gonna support the team; my blood will always run Bruin blue. It’s just that I’m no longer going to pour myself into the team like I have been these past few years. I’m moving on with my life. I can finally accept that the program - under the leadership of Karl Dorrell - has been buried. I have emerged from the five stages of grief, and now I’m at peace.

This isn’t the first time my relationship with UCLA football has died. During the last couple of games of the Bob Toledo era, I made a similar vow. Fortunately, the administration was on the same page and got rid of him soon after. Unfortunately, it replaced him with Dorrell.

I forced myself to start fresh, let our relationship be reborn, even though I was skeptical about whether the program was alive once again. Over the course of Dorrell’s five-year tenure, I’ve seen all the telltale signs that suggested this death was imminent; I just chose to hold on to some slivers of hope that the team provided every so often by winning a game it wasn’t supposed to. Even as I’ve been calling for his dismissal for the last several weeks, I still went out and gave my all as a fan.

But now, I, like many of my counterparts in Bruin Nation, can acknowledge with absolute certainty that our spirit has been permanently crushed (well, at least until a new coach revives it); that whatever life, momentum, hope, optimism, and promise that survived the losses to Utah and Notre Dame, and was revived by the win over Cal, was extinguished by this humiliating loss to Washington St.

At this point, I’ve got nothing more to say. I’ve vented as much as I possibly can about the frustrations over the team’s lack of toughness (see 11/9/06 after Cal), lack of effort (see 9/17/07 after Utah), and lack of preparation (see 10/8/07 after Notre Dame). Others Bruin faithful are carrying the torch, like the boys at DumpDorrell.com who are fundraising to raise up a billboard to publicly petition to AD Dan Guerrero for Dorrell’s dismissal, or the always vocal Bruins Nation, or the loyal cranks on Bruin Report Online. Even SI’s Stewart Mandel is calling UCLA the worst coached team in America. But I’ve got no more fuel to add to the fire. Any more negativity out of my mouth is just going to affect my health and make me say something I’ll regret.

Now it’s not a given that Dorrell is going to be let go; he still has four games, three against top-15 level teams, to continue the deception that the program is headed in the right direction by pulling off some more miraculous upset wins. Honestly, if Guerrero isn’t convinced that Dorrell is in over his head, I’m not sure what else needs to happen, short of a winless season. Anyone with a pair of functioning eyes can see that. And if you do truly believe Dorrell’s the answer, let me introduce to my good friend the Tooth Fairy.

So with these remaining four games, or possibly even more if the Bruins cowboy up and make a bowl and/or manage to salvage Dorrell’s job, I’m looking forward to being just a casual fan. I won’t have to pull my hair out over a punchless West Coast offense unable to complete even simple pass plays. I won’t have to gnash my teeth seeing another spread offense cut apart the “vaunted” Bruin defense. Best of all, I’ll be able to tune out all of the lame clichéd excuses of problems with execution, focus, intensity, and injury. I’ll get to use Saturday nights to relax with a glass of wine instead of stewing with my bottle(s) of hard liquor. Already I feel my blood pressure lowering. As much as I’ll miss UCLA football, I know I’m so much better off without it right now. And I’m sure I’ll be more refreshed when the program is rejuvenated with a new coaching staff.

Whatever does happen, I hope that things are handled with class. ‘Cause even though Karl may be dead to me now, he’s still a Bruin that exudes integrity, and all Bruins deserve to be treated with dignity and respect. Even if they can’t coach their way out of a paper bag.

It’s been one hell of a ride. But this is where I get off.

AP Photo by Dean Hare

Friday, October 26, 2007

What’s Cookin’ Behind the Curtain – Grubbing Before the Rooster Crows

(Originally posted on LAist on October 26)

French Dip a la Rooster Cafe

This month, LAist has brought you daily coverage of some of LA’s finest late night dining spots from all over the Southland. So we’d be remiss if we didn’t throw in at least one spot from OC.

Some of you readers that have probably never set foot down in the giant suburbia known as Orange County might be surprised to learn that there is actually a bar scene and late night crowd. True, you have to look a little harder to find it, but it does exist. I swear.

One of these little hamlets of nightlife activity exists in Costa Mesa. While it appears to the naked eye that Baker St. seems abandoned after about 9 pm, there are actually a number of bars and clubs within a half-mile radius of the 73 Freeway, primarily located off the main drag in strip malls and industrial centers. Though hidden, these nightspots range from divey bars to chic lounges. And Rooster Café is the restaurant that services all of these hipsters after they’ve had their fill of carousing.

Rooster Café was actually opened by the owner of Kitsch Bar (off Baker/Bear) several months ago, replacing a popular neighborhood ramen shop. It’s primarily a brunch spot, opened daily from 7 am to 3 pm, but it is perfectly tailored to meet the needs of the late night crowd as well, re-opening its doors from 10 pm to 3 am on Friday and Saturday nights. It brings in a rowdy crowd from the Tin Lizzie Saloon, a gay bar next door, as well as pedestrians from the other neighborhood joints that are too sloshed to drive home. Offering counter service and holding about ten tables, the cafe attracts plenty of loiterers content to chat with some of their new best friends. The café has a minimalist décor, with red walls and furniture that looks more IKEA than Pottery Barn. Alternative music blasts from the speakers and the help is mostly tatted up or wearing some hipster threads.

The menu at Rooster café is simple, designed for fast and easy preparation of orders at the grill in the kitchen. The breakfast portion of the menu features various egg scrambles, French toast, and breakfast burritos, all for four to five dollars, as well as bowls of cereal (how yummy is a bowl of Cap’n Crunch after you’ve been drinking for five hours?). The lunch menu offers up different cold (BLT, tuna) and warm (meatball, grilled veggie) sandwiches ranging from five to seven dollars. And for those patrons that haven’t gotten their fill of liquor, bottled imports like Newcastle and Amstel are available, not to mention mimosas.

The one thing that distinguishes Rooster Café from a typical greasy spoon is the quality of the food. The ingredients are actually fresh, bringing an element of gourmet, not like the food was just thrown in a microwave or cooked in a deep fryer. The French dip is a popular example of this. Thinly sliced cuts of roast beef are served with sautéed mushrooms, grilled onions, and melted swiss cheese, all piled into a French roll, thus making it as much a cheesesteak as it is a French dip. But served piping hot with standard au jus on the side, it’s actually a really good sandwich, not just a really good late-night sandwich (big difference). In other words, sober people will appreciate the food as much as a drunk. The sandwich comes out literally steaming because of the meat, and the onions and mushrooms give it plenty of extra flavor, with the fresh roll providing the appropriate amount of crunch to absorb the au jus without getting soggy.

The breakfast burrito here is a little better than the roach coach variety

The breakfast burrito is also a tasty dish that provides the comfort of post-bar finger food without compromising the quality of the food. Anyone who eats at roach coaches knows about the legend of roach coach breakfast burritos. Warm, greasy, so good going down, not so good coming out. The Rooster Café breakfast burrito is just as good going down, not as greasy, and does not result in the same degree of aftershocks. The burritos are thick, a big flour tortilla filled with fluffy scrambled eggs, hash browned potatoes, melted cheddar cheese, bacon or Portuguese sausage, with a side of fresh pico de gallo. The potatoes are not overly fried, helping to reduce the oiliness that weighs roach coach burritos down. The amount of meat and cheese is moderated to bring great flavor without dominating the dish and the lightness of the eggs and the coolness of the pico de gallo really lift the burrito. In effect, you get the benefit of feeling like you’re eating greasy food to absorb the alcohol without it being too greasy (relatively speaking).

When you’re on the lookout for a little nightcap, and you have that bug, any food will do. But it’s nice to find a place like Rooster Café that is a decent spot to hang out in after the bars have closed, yet offers good food that you may even remember when you wake up in the morning.

Rooster Café
750 St. Clair St.
Costa Mesa, CA 92626

Monday, October 22, 2007

Bruin Recap - Roaring Back Against the Bears

(Originally posted on LAist on October 22)

Karl Dorrell and the Bruins had plenty to cheer about this weekYou take the good, you take the bad, you take them both and there you have the facts of life. And UCLA football under Karl Dorrell.

Two weeks ago, the obituaries for Dorrell’s job were already being written after the Bruins were humiliated by two touchdowns to previously winless Notre Dame. The same Notre Dame that USC just undressed 38-0 this past Saturday. There have been few moments in my time as a Bruin fan that I can remember any coach or team receiving the amount of vitriol that were spouted during the days immediately following the loss. Bruin fans were out for blood.

But if there’s anything we’ve learned about the football program during Dorrell’s tenure, it’s that the team is capable of as many brilliant highs as spectacular lows. It’s this inconsistency which makes it so maddeningly frustrating to support the team. It pains us to see the possibility of what we could be if we lived up to the potential. And it teases us by giving us hope that we’re on the doorstep of finally fulfilling that potential. We experience the exhilaration of watching our team play its game, stand toe-to-toe with a highly-regarded rival, and emerge the victor. We revel in the glory of a hard-fought 30-21 win over #10 Cal, applauding our heroes, yet stand afraid, wanting so desperately to hold on to this feeling but not wanting to put our faith back into this team just to get burned once more. This is the dilemma that faces UCLA fans today.

For now, considering all of the criticism that we’ve bestowed on to the team for its underachievement so far this season, it is only fair to celebrate it for playing a game worthy of the offset ‘C’ that highlights the end zone, signifying the unprecedented 100 team championships that the UCLA athletic program earned this past year. While it was Alterraun Verner’s pick-six when Cal was driving to kick the winning field goal that clinched the game, this was a team effort. The Bruins got contributions from all of the units, even the much-maligned coaching staff. Never mind the fact that Cal was just minutes away from being #1 last week, what showed on the Rose Bowl field was a UCLA team that prepared better and simply outplayed a highly-talented foe.

Once again, the defense led the way, containing an explosive Cal offense that featured Heisman candidate DeSean Jackson. While Jackson still had a big day, the Bruins totally shut down Cal’s running game, including Justin Forsett, who came in leading the conference in rushing. Kevin Brown anchored a strong effort by the defensive line, which controlled the line of scrimmage, allowing linebackers Christian Taylor (who is in recovery after suffering a seizure following a concussion), Reggie Carter, and Kyle Bosworth to come up and attack. Considering the quality of Cal’s receivers, the defensive secondary covered well, and prevented any game-breaking plays with sure tackling. This marked the third straight game that the defense held the opposing team below its season average in yards, with Cal gaining nearly 130 yards fewer than normal.

Kahlil Bell was the workhorse on offense again this weekWhat made the defense even more effective was the Bruins’ efficiency on offense. The Bruins kept the defense off the field by churning up first downs and burning the clock with a balanced attack (183 yards rushing/190 yards passing). Not surprisingly, the offense was effective with Pat Cowan back under center, despite being hobbled by a torn MCL. For whatever reason, the offense as a whole seems to play better when Cowan is playing QB as opposed to Ben Olson, and I’ll say it again, he should be the starter from here on out if he can stay healthy. Cowan made good decisions and reads, and protected the ball (save for a botched handoff). While his accuracy was unpredictable and his throws to the outside looked like ducks waiting to be picked off, his understanding of the game compensated for his physical shortcomings by putting the ball where it needed to be and avoiding risky plays. The receivers took advantage of Cal’s suspect secondary, getting separation from the DBs for a change giving Cowan opportunities to throw. Brandon Breazell, as he has been all year, was the man, catching balls, running end-arounds, and throwing touchdown passes (more on that later). And Pat’s brother Joe Cowan made several plays in critical situations. The offensive line turned in perhaps its best performance of the season, winning the battle upfront to create running lanes for Kahlil Bell, but also providing solid pass protection, giving Pat more time to throw than the quarterbacks have had in recent weeks. Bell, of course, continued to anchor of the offense. With Chris Markey effectively sidelined with a turf toe injury, Bell wore down the Cal defense, gaining 142 big yards.

The one thing the Bruins have been consistently successful with this year is special teams. Saturday showed exactly how important this aspect of the game is. Kai Forbath, the phenomenal freshman kicker for UCLA, made another three field goals, giving him ten consecutive makes over four games. On the other sideline, Cal kicker Jordan Kay missed his only attempt, giving him five misses in his last seven attempts. Margin of victory? Yep, nine points. Meanwhile, punter Aaron Perez didn’t give Jackson any opportunity to make one of his ridiculous returns like last season.

Alterraun Verner taking it to the house to clinch the Bruin victoryI’ve ripped on the coaching staff for not getting players ready to play and for highly suspect playcalling, but this week, they earned their money. DeWayne Walker had his defense up for the challenge this week. As Verner said about his interception after the game, he was able to jump Jackson’s out route because he identified what play was coming pre-snap; a great individual play, no doubt, but also attributable to excellent preparation. Walker also made some great halftime adjustments to slow down Cal’s passing attack by featuring more blitz packages to disrupt the timing of QB Nate Longshore and his gimpy ankle. Offensive coordinator Jay Norvell showed a little more imagination this week, running the aforementioned Breazell end-arounds to set up the beautiful end-around pass from Breazell to Dominique Johnson. Norvell dialed up more middle screens as well, capitalizing on Cal’s overaggressive defense, and helping keep UCLA in more manageable third-down situations. It was in direct contrast to the playcalling of Jeff Tedford, the guy whose supposed coaching abilities are lusted after by many Bruin fans. He was extraordinarly conservative, particularly in the second half. I’m used to seeing the run-run-pass offense from UCLA, but to see Cal not getting the ball into the hands of its playmakers was strange. Even though Cal was having some success in third-and-long situations, it made the Bears’ offense entirely predictable, culminating in the pivotal interception when it was the Bruins that were on the ropes. For once, it was the Bruins that were the aggressor, well, relatively speaking.

Which brings us back to the man in charge, Mr. Dorrell. He took his lumps these last two weeks, suffered through countless calls for his dismissal, and used the bye week to circle the wagons and get his team ready to play. Dorrell may not be a lot of things, but he is a fighter. Every time fans are ready to write him off, he somehow gets off the mat and the team responds. He had his share of classic Karl moments, most notably the inexplicable 4th and 1 decision to punt at Cal’s 38 late in the third quarter which elicited thunderous boos from the crowd. It wasn’t enough that he acted like a scared little girl, even though the Bruins were losing and moving the ball effectively, it was also that he wasted a timeout to set up the “try to draw the defense offsides” play. As he said in his post-game press conference, “I didn’t want to make a mistake.” Which is always how he has coached, play not to lose, the attitude that Bruin fans hate. But give the man his due, he sticks to his guns, probably too stubbornly, never changing in his approach, his demeanor, or his attitude, no matter how well or how poorly the team is playing. He is who he is. Although it’s totally fair to ask why his players don’t put forth this kind of effort every and execution week, Dorrell does deserve the credit for getting the Bruins to play well this week. And he did so against a team and a coach that many of the Bruin faithful perceive as having surpassed UCLA as a program.

I don’t really think this win changes anything other than silencing some of the critics for now. The Dorrell-era Bruins have always delivered these moments and gotten fans’ hopes up, only to follow it up with a stinkbomb. So the true test is whether this is the start of a run at the Rose Bowl, or just the one high point of the season before descending back into mediocrity. The next two weeks feature road games against bottom feeders Washington St. and Arizona, games that UCLA on paper has the decided advantage. On paper, the Bruins are tied atop the Pac-10 standings at 4-0. But we all know that games aren’t played on paper. There isn’t a Bruin fan out there who isn’t scared that the team might lose one or both of these games. At the same time, Saturday showed that there’s no reason to believe that the Bruins can’t win the rest of their games as well. We know what history suggests. Thanks to the win over Cal, Dorrell still has his chance to rewrite those history books before the story ends.

AP photos by Kevork Djansezian and Richard Vogel

Friday, October 19, 2007

What’s Cookin’ Behind the Curtain – Blimey, Thar Be Some Cajun Grub to Pillage

(Originally posted on LAist on October 19)

Cajun crawfish, Vietnamese-style

Every week, we present you with a unique OC dining experience. Sometimes that means excellent food at an underappreciated local spot. Other times that means an interesting atmosphere or eating environment.

And then there’s Claws Restaurant. A newly-opened pirate-themed, Vietnamese-run Cajun joint. In the heavily minority city of Garden Grove.

What’s interesting is that Cajun restaurants have become big business around Little Saigon and Garden Grove over the last couple of years, perhaps owing to the similarities in the French cultural roots of both Cajun and Vietnamese cooking (just think how perfect Sriracha sauce would be with your fried catfish). The gold standard is The Boiling Crab, which also just opened an Alhambra location a few months ago. But there are several imitators, of which Claws happens to be the latest.

So when I heard about Claws’ grand opening less than a month ago, I didn’t really take notice. Another place with an $8/lb crawfish boil. But then I heard it was pirate-themed, and went on the website and saw management promoting itself with statements like “if any pirate shall offer to run away without drinking beer shall be marroon’d [sic] with one bottle of diet coke, and pinched by the captain.” Oh yes, I’m there. I’m thinking this could be a real-life enactment of that Fresh Prince episode where Will works at that pirate restaurant to pay for his homecoming dance (OK no one got that last reference, but you can YouTube it here, here, and here).

And indeed, the restaurant looks like you walked into the Pirates of the Caribbean ride at Disneyland, with life-size pirate figures, paintings of vessels, and skeleton-decorated banners strewn across the ceiling. About the only thing it was missing was the costumed help with a parrot on the shoulder (if Hot Dog on a Stick employees can be convinced to wear those ridiculous multi-colored, big-hat getups, why not make them wear eyepatches and peglegs). Of course, the eight tracks of Timbaland, Justin Timberlake, and Kanye West that were on blast didn’t exactly fit with the “Yo Ho” atmosphere.

A picture of little Pinchy before I devoured himThe menu is pretty standard fare, with all types of fried seafood, as well as crab, mussels, oysters, and clams. Traditional Cajun dishes like etouffee, jambalaya, and gumbo are available as well. However, given that these restaurants are known for their crawfish boils, I had to oblige (though Claws only serves crawfish from NorCal and not Louisiana). After having had fresh stone crabs in Miami last weekend, eating crawfish was kind of like downgrading from a Ruth’s Chris filet to a Norm’s T-Bone steak and eggs. Still, there’s always something primitively enjoyable about reaching your hand into that plastic bag, pulling apart those little crawfish and gnawing at the innards. Suck the head, eat the tail, right? I ordered a pound, spicy, with Claws’ cannonball flavor (a mixture of Cajun, garlic butter, and lemon pepper seasoning). The spices were robust, and after about three crawfish, all I could feel was burn, and occasionally garlic. But the spice mix was tasty, and even today I’m getting hungry smelling the remaining residue on my fingers that I haven’t been able to get rid of overnight. As far as the crawfish meat was concerned, the choice tail pieces had the familiar crustacean taste, though prying them open killed my fingers. I even went all out and sucked up the body meat, with the uncomfortable combination of chewy, liquidy, and crunchy comprising the various textures of the body and organs, and that unmistakable flavor (for lack of a better word) of those components. And anytime I my taste buds got too overwhelmed, I had my trusty friend Sam Adams there to give me a hand.

Here's the gumboI also ordered the gumbo, which was a perfectly good pot of shrimp, andouille sausage, mussels, and fish mixed in a brown roux with okra, celery, bell peppers, and onions. After some Wikipedia research, I determined that the inclusion of tomatoes in the roux made it more Creole-style than Cajun-style. Either way, I’ll gladly have me some more of it. You have the option for with or without rice, but interestingly enough, the rice was mixed into the gumbo like a jambalaya as opposed to served on top of rice.

And since I needed something to help absorb the spices of my crawfish, I picked up an order of fried okra (bah health, save the corn for another day). Lightly breaded, and served with a side of ranch, the okra made a nice little bite-size side. In fact, I think bars should serve fried okra; they taste lighter than fries and give you the juiciness of a green vegetable, as opposed to the starchiness of a potato. The okra were simply seasoned with salt and pepper; certainly nothing gourmet here, but good old-fashioned finger food.

Fried okraIf you happen to hurry down there this weekend, Claws is finishing its grand-opening promotion which features 20% off your ticket, free soda, and $2 domestic beers (please remember to drink responsibly, drinking six beers is still not going to put out that fire on your tongue). And they even hooked me up with a little portion of coconut jello for dessert.

Yes, it seems a little counterintuitive to make a trip to Westminster/Garden Grove and eat anything but Vietnamese (or Korean) food. I’m not one to vouch for the authenticity of Cajun food, but I think you could do much worse. And there aren’t even any pirates holding a sword to my throat to make me type this.

Claws Restaurant
12093 Brookhurst St. #E
Garden Grove, CA 92840

Friday, October 12, 2007

Late Night Eats: Regent Cafe

(Originally posted on LAist on October 12)

IMG_9762a.jpg

One of the things I love most about LA is the depth of its cultural diversity. I don’t love the fact that it’s so segregated, but I appreciate the fact that in contrast to the outsider view that LA is simply a vapid, endless string of cookie-cutter communities, every neighborhood has its own character and identity (witness our Neighborhood Projects). Which means that no matter what you’re into, you can find a place that fits your personality and style.

As anyone that knows anything about LA knows, the San Gabriel Valley is where a good portion of the more than 400,000 LA County Chinese residents live. Though bordering on East LA and Pasadena, it feels a world apart, from all of the Chinese businesses and signage to the overwhelming amount of Cantonese, Mandarin, and Taiwanese spoken (depending on where you are). While the cities in the San Gabriel Valley are much closer to suburban than urban, and thus lacking in many bars and late night entertainment, there still exists a wealth of after-hour locations to eat. Regent Cafe in Alhambra is just one of these options.

Regent is a Hong Kong-style café, which can best described in American terms as a Chinese diner. Like an American diner, these cafés are open almost around the clock and have a wide variety of foods to choose from. The roots of Hong Kong cafés originate from the Western influence of the British, serving a combination of Cantonese imitations of Western dishes and traditional Chinese food and beverages. There are over 150 items on Regent’s menu, including pastas, curries, noodles, rice dishes, and even steaks and seafood, so it’s almost guaranteed that you can find something that you want to eat on the menu. You can opt for old stodgy classics like Chicken a la King or more exotic fare like baked ox tongue. Additionally, desserts like soufflé, crepes, and cakes are available, along with specialty drinks like boba tea.

Besides the hours and variety, Hong Kong-style cafes also tend to be similar to classic diners in that you get what you pay for. That is, the food is nothing to write home about, but is very reasonably priced. At Regent, most of the dishes are between $5 and $8, so you can get a good-portioned late-night snack without having to hit up the ATM.

If you’ve spent much time in the SGV, you know that if you’re only an English speaker, it can be pretty difficult to get much help of any kind, particularly at many restaurants. The wait staff at Regent is proficient enough in English, though having a Cantonese speaker with you generally means you’ll get more attentive service (not that it’s very good in the first place). The crowd is almost all Chinese, not surprisingly, and quiets down pretty significantly later on in the evening. Like all the other cafes in the area, people tend to go to Regent simply to grease their stomach and just loiter with friends. The atmosphere is much more welcoming than a lot of Chinese restaurants, with American soft rock music over the loudspeaker, high airy ceilings, an abundance of green plants, and light pastel colors, making it a pleasant place to simply hang out.

Tan chai porridgeAs I mentioned before, one does not go to cafes for the food, one goes to eat. On this particular night, I opted for the tan chai porridge, fish fillet on rice satay, and a red bean milkshake. The porridge was primarily a seafood congee, with shrimp, squid, and jellyfish, but topped with sliced peanuts, fried wontons, and scallions, sort of a strange combination of flavors and textures. It’s a huge bowl, and I really wasn’t in the mood to eat that much, especially given how bland congee tends to be. On the other hand, the fish fillet had a lot more flavor, served with sliced onions in a not-too-spicy brown sauce. Served on a bed of rice, it was simple, but easy on the stomach after a long night. This would be a dish that I would be OK with ordering for dinner as well. And of course I had to balance the sweet and the savory, made all the easier since I’m a sucker for milkshakes. The red bean milkshake was essentially a surprisingly good vanilla milkshake with scoops of red beans mixed in (not completely blended). Adding the red bean diluted some of the sweetness while adding some textural contrast, but not so much that it stopped being a beverage. Definitely yummy.

Fish fillet on rice satay Red bean milkshake



Regent Cafe is not the most well-known or the most popular café in the area, but it just happens to be the one that I end up at most frequently because of its convenient location at Garfield and Valley. So if you’re not satisfied with your food or your service, you can always drive down Valley to another café. Or, ironically, you can pop across the street to the original location of The Hat for their bomb pastrami dip sandwich. Ain’t diversity grand?

Regent Cafe
1411 S. Garfield Ave.
Alhambra, CA 91801
(626) 289-9398

Sun-Thu: 10 am-1 am
Fri-Sat: 10 am-3 am

What’s Cookin’ Behind the Curtain – Yes, It Tastes Like Chicken

(Originally posted on LAist on October 12)

Rosine's delectable rotisserie chicken combination plate

As someone who rarely eats red meat (but is not a vegetarian), my options for protein are pretty limited. Consequently, I eat a lot of chicken as well as a fair amount of fish. Chicken obviously is not the most exciting meat to eat, and despite many attempts to prepare chicken in every conceivable manner to extract some discernible flavor (except maybe sous vide, sorry Hung), I usually end up with a bland piece of poultry that I have to goose up by dousing it in some sauce or killing it with spices.

However, at Rosine’s in Anaheim Hills, the taste of chicken is elevated to a level far beyond my conventional eating experience. Rosine’s is a family-owned Eastern Mediterranean restaurant mostly known for its rotisserie chicken, although the menu also contains an extensive assortment of kebabs, pita sandwiches, and a handful of other traditional Mediterranean dishes. While entrees are fairly priced from $8-$12 for lunch and $11-$18 for dinner, by far the best deal is the rotisserie chicken combination plate. Not only do you get a half-chicken, but also two sides from the restaurant’s long list, plus a serving of the garlic sauce, all for $9.50. Rosine’s also has an impressive wine list for a restaurant of its size and stature, including a number of German Rieslings, Lebanese Reds, and many French and Californian selections.

What makes the rotisserie chicken so good? I don’t know the preparation secret, although I was highly tempted to ask. What I do know is that the chicken comes out incredibly moist. Like not just moist, but melt in your mouth moist. Wow. I took that first bite and I was really stunned, which doesn’t really happen that much (it was probably my low expectation chicken bias kicking in). The amazing thing was that the natural flavor of the meat really came out, proving to me that as bland as chicken breast can be, it doesn’t necessarily have to taste so generically. The bird wasn’t seasoned that heavily, but it didn’t need to be, and the golden, slightly crispy skin just burst with flavor. Surprisingly, the “special” garlic sauce (which is more like a spread), which I would normally suffocate the chicken with, became more of the complementary flavor rather than the dominant flavor.

The selection of sides is almost as long as the selection of entrees, offering cold dishes like hummus and tabbouleh, salads, and potatoes to name a few. My first side was the ratatouille, which I had had a craving for since Dale’s deconstructed ratatouille on Top Chef and the adorable (yet disgusting) rat’s specialty dish in the Pixar movie. While I didn’t have that “a-ha” moment like in the movie, I did enjoy the stewed vegetables and herbs. The dish was skewed towards the tomatoes and the zucchini, but also included eggplant, peppers, and carrots. It was a nice hearty accompaniment to the chicken and an excellent contrast to my other side, the wheat pilav. The pilaf, mixed with orzo, contained the grainy taste of the bulgur, but was extremely buttery, giving it a heaviness that was a bit unwanted. Nevertheless, the combination of the three items made for a very well-balanced meal with no shortage of sensations to my tastebuds.

The interesting thing about the restaurant is that it is designed to look much more decadent than the outside or the menu would suggest. The lighting is very dim, relying on candles at each table and on the walls to illuminate the room. The resulting effect is a more intimate, formal setting, which is contradictory to the simple plating and tableware. Rosine’s also displays some of its war chest of wine, with racks built into the wall separating the dining room and the kitchen and more bottles prominently displayed in a small cabinet. Thus, while you are getting a pretty simple meal, you feel like you are dining out at a higher end restaurant.

My biggest complaint? Every time I eat my own poorly cooked, dried out chicken breast, I’m going to be thinking of Rosine’s rotisserie chicken, annoyed that I have to subject myself to such boring, bland food. Thanks for nothing Rosine’s.

Rosine’s
721 S. Weir Canyon Rd.
Anaheim, CA 92808

Monday, October 8, 2007

Bruin Recap – Time to Dust Off That Resumé Karl (I Hope)

(Originally posted on LAist on October 8)
(Featured on Bruins Nation on October 9)

McLeod Bethel-Thompson was repeatedly harassed by Notre Dame's crummy defenseIt was my mom’s birthday this weekend and we got to spend a nice dinner together just talking and enjoying each other’s company. Moms are great in that they’ll always be your biggest fan no matter how much you screw up or disappoint them (and I’ve certainly had my fair share of screw-ups and disappointments).

What do moms have to do with UCLA football? Pretty simple. After the Bruins’ latest embarrassing loss, 20-6 to previously winless Notre Dame, about the only person who still supports Karl Dorrell’s tenure as coach is probably his mother. Only a mom could stay blindly loyal to someone who has managed to turn the name ‘UCLA’ into a national punchline by losing handily to a team who has been the laughingstock of football the entire season.

For many Bruin football followers, this loss is the culmination of nearly five years of angst which began the moment Dorrell was hired, owing to the highly suspect coaching search which landed him, and the coach’s lack of credentials for taking over a program of this caliber. The optimists have been trying to hold out hope that the positives from Dorrell’s regime, such as the clean up of the mess left by Bob Toledo, the improvement of the locker room culture, and rebuilding of the local recruiting pipeline, could outweigh the obvious deficiencies in strategic vision, game-planning, and in-game adjustments. And just about everyone wanted Dorrell to be successful because of his Bruin heritage, his likable personality (despite the lack of charisma), and his work ethic. However, this game simply confirmed the mounting evidence that the program has gone as far as it is going to go with this coach. And I’d have to say that Bruin Nation is not terribly enthused about another fifth-place conference finish and loss in the Waste Management Mediocrity Bowl (OK I made that one up), which is about what this year’s “breakthrough” team seems destined for.

Ben Olson hurt his knee again, leaving the Bruins with no experience at the QB positionCertainly, the excuse can be made that injuries cost the Bruins the game (or as Karl alluded to in his post-game interview, the team is “snakebit”). Starting QB Ben Olson injured his knee on a sack in the first quarter, and with backup Patrick Cowan also sidelined with a knee injury, the burden fell on walk-on freshman McLeod Bethel-Thompson to lead the team. Let’s just say he brought new meaning to the term ‘deer in headlights’, as evidenced by the five turnovers and four sacks he gave up (the lack of blocking definitely didn’t help). I love the story of the movie Rudy, but dude never had to be in position to win a game on national TV with the ball in his hands for three-plus quarters. Poor McLeod did as much as a kid with his level of experience and talent could do, but he clearly wasn’t ready.

Nevertheless, there is no justification for the number of mistakes made by veteran players. A season-high 11 penalties, including a holding penalty on Logan Paulsen that negated a long touchdown pass. Kahlil Bell had another fumble, plus a drop of a wide-open touchdown pass during a possession that ultimately ended up in an interception. Yes, players are responsible for making the plays on the field, but when the team is making the same mistakes every week, somehow whatever the coaching staff is telling them isn’t sinking in. Every week in his press conference, Dorrell points out that the team needs to execute better. Newsflash, they haven’t executed well all season, maybe there’s something wrong with the gameplan and the overall philosophy that needs adjusting.

The Karl Dorrell regime could be down to its final six gamesAnd that last point is the glaring takeaway from this game: the coaching staff is either not flexible enough or not smart enough to make changes, either to the entire offensive system, or to specific gameplans during the game. For five seasons, Dorrell has attempted to implement his West Coast offense philosophy with mixed success (national ranking in scoring: ’03-100, ’04-29, ’05-5, ’06-64, ’07-57), rigidly sticking to it despite having very different personnel during those years. Over the last couple of seasons when the offense has been mediocre at best, it’s been obvious that Olson is far more comfortable taking deep drops and throwing downfield, while Cowan is better suited to quick reads and short and intermediate routes. But the gameplans haven’t been adjusted to play to those specifc strengths.

On Saturday, the Bruins were facing the second-worst rushing defense in the country. Given that UCLA’s offensive strength is the running game (despite Chris Markey’s absence), and with a THIRD-STRING FRESHMAN WALK-ON under center, you would think that they would pound the ball, even if Notre Dame loaded up the box and blitzed all night (which they did). After all, two weeks ago against Washington, when Bethel-Thompson came in early in the fourth quarter (albeit with a lead) after Cowan got hurt, they ran it 19 times; the only pass play was a botched halfback pass. So why did they all of a sudden get pass-happy against the Irish? Your starting quarterback is no longer in the game, maybe you should try to put the game in the hands of your senior running back and senior offensive line rather than an inexperienced freshman quarterback.

Three plays in particular exemplified the idiocy of the playcalling. Play #1, second quarter, third-and-two in Notre Dame territory, the Bruins have moved the ball 40 yards with five runs and one pass. Jay Norvell calls a rollout pass to the tight end. Incomplete pass. Punt. Play #2, third quarter, fourth-and-one in field goal range with a 6-3 lead. Bruins burn a timeout, then call a five-wide set with no running backs. Not even trying to disguise a pass! McLeod gets sacked. Irish have the ball and momentum. Play #3, third quarter, third-and-six on their own five-yard-line. Rollout pass in the end zone for a corner route to the tight end, not exactly a safe pass play. Ball intercepted and returned inside the five, leading to the go-ahead touchdown. WTF? There were only two negative rushing plays (excluding sacks and fumbled snaps) the whole game. Why are you relying on the weakest part of your team, letting your overmatched QB try to make risky plays, instead of relying on the strongest part of your team: defense, special teams, and running game?

The defense did its job, but it couldn't make up for the woeful showing by the offenseI’m sure McLeod feels terrible because his poor play led to the Bruins losing the game. But in reality, the coaching staff did not put him in position to be successful, it put him in a position to make mistakes. That is what is most disheartening about the loss. Unlike the Utah game, which was far more embarrassing in terms of lack of effort on the field, this loss wasn’t about players not showing up to play as much as it was an inability for Dorrell and staff to give them the best opportunity to win. And that’s a shame for these kids that generally work hard and represent the types of student-athletes we can be proud of. On a night where the defense played strong, neutralizing the punchless Notre Dame offense (140 total yards and only three points allowed that weren’t the direct result of turnovers), there should be no reason why they look up at the scoreboard and see a 14-point defeat and watch the humiliating scene of opposing players celebrating on the Rose Bowl grass.

Perhaps the most telling sign of the current state of affairs was the fan response in the early stages of the game when everyone still thought that the Bruins would win. There were a number of Irish fans sitting in my section (and in every other section) and despite their team’s 0-5 debacle of a season to that point and poor execution on the field, they still conveyed optimism and enthusiasm because they’re excited about the direction that Charlie Weis has the program headed in the right direction. Contrast that to the Bruin fans, who were groaning after every bad play, expecting something bad to happen because that’s what seems to happen to this team under Dorrell, despite a seemingly lofty 4-1 record. There is no confidence in the direction of the program, only the expectation that things are going to get worse. How can this be allowed to continue?

Now the big question is whether the athletic department, which supposedly loves Karl, has the stones to pull the trigger (and if you want to encourage them, AD Dan Guerrero’s email is dguerrero@athletics.ucla.edu). It may cost them this stellar recruiting class that Dorrell is bringing in, and it will cost a lot of money to buyout some contracts. But you know what, if someone doesn’t know how to drive a car, it’s not going to matter whether he has a Ferrari or he has a Kia. The car is still not going to go anywhere. It’s time to find someone that’s got his drivers license, even if his car his only a Camry.

The only good news from Saturday? Stanford 24 USC 23. Sad to say, that was about the only thing that elicited much of a cheer from Bruin fans at the Rose Bowl. Yay, we can take comfort in the fact that we weren’t the only team to embarrass ourselves this weekend. Yes, this is UCLA football.

AP Photos by Kevork Djansezian

Friday, October 5, 2007

What’s Cookin’ Behind the Curtain – If It Ain’t Broke, Don’t Fix It

(Originally posted on LAist on October 5)

I eat this spicy tuna don and sansai soba noodle combination at least once a week

Several years ago, I used to work in Downtown. Because I would often work through lunch, I had a certain place (Skew’s at Cal Plaza) that I would grab for takeout at every day. It was the combination of quality food (for a fast-casual place), large portions (necessary for someone that eats as much as I do), and healthy menu items (plain chicken breast, salad, brown rice) that continued to draw me back despite a plethora of other options in the area. And it wasn’t just that I went there every day, it was that I ordered the exact same thing every day (albeit getting a different sauce with the chicken). It’s not that I’m a total creature of habit; in fact, I love to try new things. But occasionally, I’ll find something that I enjoy so much that I don’t even bother to try anything else.

So about a year ago, I stumbled upon Fukada in Irvine. There are a ton of quality Japanese restaurants in the central Orange County area, so despite its lofty recommendations (it’s a Yelp favorite), I wasn’t expecting it to be that memorable. It was memorable. And even though I go back all the time and order the same Spicy Tuna Don on brown rice with sansai soba noodles (unless I order the Unagi Don), I never walk away feeling disappointed. Except for the absurdly long lines that often greet me (particularly during lunch).

Although Fukada has a full array of Japanese dishes, it is best known for its handmade noodles. The restaurant serves both udon, which are the thick wheat noodles, and soba, which are the thin buckwheat noodles, in both hot and cold form. The noodles are topped with any number of ingredients, including oroshi (Japanese radish), chikara (mochi), or kamonanban (cooked duck), and served in a soy-based broth. For the combination plate that I always order, your options are sansai (Japanese mountain vegetables) or tanuki (tempura). I love the sansai because of the lightness of the vegetables, which helps give the noodles a crispness (not to mention some color) for a wholly satisfying, but healthy dish.

Besides the freshness of the food, dishes are extremely affordable considering the quality. I love me some $5 ramen at the numerous spots in Little Tokyo/Little Osaka, so Fukada’s noodles are slightly more expensive, ranging in price from $6-$9, depending on your selection of toppings. Where the value comes in is the combination plate. The restaurant’s special is a donburi (bowl of rice with your choice of protein) and an order of noodles, a full, well-rounded meal at a highly affordable price (lunch $9/dinner $11). As I mentioned earlier, I am highly partial to the Spicy Tuna Don on brown rice. The tuna is not overly loaded with mayonnaise or Japanese hot pepper as you may get at some sushi restaurants, helping to keep it lighter on the stomach. Fukada gives you a big glop on top of a nice bed of rice (gotta have brown rice, not only for the additional fiber and nutrients, but the slightly grainy taste and texture) and some nori (seaweed) flakes. Add a little wasabi and (low sodium) soy sauce and you get more yummy goodness. My fallback is the Unagi Don, which replaces the spicy tuna with a nice chunk of sliced freshwater eel, topped with kabayaki sauce. Either way, you really can’t go wrong.

Fukada is a smallish restaurant seating maybe 50 people, which contributes to the crowdedness, though the wait staff cycles tables through relatively fast. The décor is minimalist, with long wooden tables and wooden benches in the middle, and individual tables on the side. Thus, you may not only get some great food, but also some great conversation with random strangers as you bump elbows in the cramped seating arrangements.

So I’ve probably been to Fukada at least 25 times and tried maybe five things on the menu. For all I know, the rest of its food could totally blow (I doubt it, but it’s possible). I do know that I’ve never misfired on my tried and true, and that’s what keeps me coming back. Over and over. And over. In fact, I’m getting a little hungry right now.

Fukada
8683 Irvine Center Dr.
Irvine, CA 92718

Monday, October 1, 2007

Bruin Recap - In a Comedy of Errors, UCLA Gets the Last Laugh

(Originally posted on LAist on October 1)

Nikola Dragovic and the UCLA defensive line punished Sean Canfield all day40-14. Sounds like an impressive UCLA road win over Oregon St., something that has not come very often during the Dorrell era. In reality, it was a comically bad display of execution by both teams, with the Bruins finally able to take advantage of the Beavers’ total ineptitude on offense and special teams.

With all of the upsets in college football this weekend, any win is a good win, no matter how ugly it is. And make no mistake about it, this was one of the ugliest, at least until about midway through the fourth quarter when Oregon St. completely imploded and the Bruins ran off 28 points in seven minutes.

How ugly was it? Kahlil Bell fumbled on the Bruins’ first two offensive plays, the second getting returned for a touchdown. UCLA had eight penalties, including six offensive penalties in the second half. On one fantastic sequence in the third quarter, the Bruins were facing third and one on the Oregon St. seven-yard line, poised for the go-ahead touchdown. UCLA committed two false start penalties in a row, then Ben Olson forced a ball into double coverage that got intercepted. Bruin football, feel the excitement.

Fortunately, Oregon St. was measurably worse. The Beavers came into the game worst in the nation in committing turnovers, and they gave away five more, mostly on unforced mistakes like the fumbles on consecutive kickoff returns in the fourth quarter that allowed the Bruins to break the game open. They had a touchdown called back on a facemask penalty. Their All-American kicker missed a field goal. They had a punt blocked. It was so unbelievably awful, it felt scripted out of a movie.

Kory Bosworth and the Bruin defense played their best game of the seasonOn the positive side, the UCLA defense brought its ‘A’ game. With the Bruin offense unable to even get a first down until midway through the second quarter, Oregon St. was able to jump out to a 14-0 lead. It looked like the Utah game was happening all over again. Thankfully for Bruin fans, the Beavers offense sought to prove it could be even more inept. Unlike every other opponent this season, the Beavers didn’t try to spread the field, which allowed UCLA’s front seven to dictate the flow of the game. While Beaver running back Yvenson Bernard found some success on the ground for 125 yards, the Bruin defense held him in check after the first three drives, daring quarterback Sean Canfield to beat them. And he couldn’t. Every pass he threw was an adventure, equally likely to end up in the arms of a Bruin defender as a Beaver receiver, and there was no attempt to throw the ball down the field. Trey Brown had two picks, but there were several other near interceptions. Oregon St. only managed 107 yards total offense after the first quarter, giving the Bruins the time to chip away at the lead with the offense (and it would need a lot of time). It was clearly the most dominant performance of the season for a unit that was highly regarded before the season, but had been grossly underachieving.

Kahlil Bell fumbled twice but made some key runs later in the gameFrom an offensive perspective, the brief fourth quarter explosion should not overshadow the fact that the Bruin offense was really bad for most of the game. Oregon St. came into the game second in the country in rushing defense, so it was not surprising that the UCLA running game wasn’t terribly effective (50 carries for 133 yards), though it gained more yards than the Beavers had allowed in their first four games combined. By sticking with Bell (despite his fumbles) and Chris Markey, the Bruin line wore down the Beaver line in the fourth quarter.

Ben Olson and the passing game are still very much a work in progressHowever, the passing game was out of sync again, with nearly half of Ben Olson’s yards coming on two touchdown plays to Brandon Breazell: a 69-yard slip screen and then a great 30-yard deep post. The Bruins found some success with screen passes to the running backs to capitalize on the Beavers’ aggressiveness, which had been missing from the repertoire this year. But there were no completions, besides the one touchdown, beyond about seven yards down the field. Jay Norvell tried without success to incorporate more deep sideline patterns to utilize Olson’s arm, but seemed to abandon any intermediate routes. Still, Olson played decently, quieting the pro-Patrick Cowan crowd (like me) for the time being. He appeared a little more comfortable in the pocket than his past two starts, and showed he can make some throws when given time. Furthermore, he didn’t make as many poor throws as previous starts, other than the bad interception (sadly that’s the standard these days). The problem is that with the shaky play of the offensive line and the predictability of the offense, he’s been unnecessarily under fire a lot of times throughout the season. For example, the vanilla playcalling on first down on Saturday (23 runs versus 8 passes, conservative much?) put the Bruins in a lot of second and long situations, leading to obvious passing situations where Oregon St. could apply some pressure. The bottom line is that it seemed questionable whether UCLA could even score more than 14 points to complete the comeback, and that speaks volumes about how far the offense needs to go, both in schemes and execution.

UCLA needs more big plays from the likes of Brandon BreazellThe biggest difference in the game was the disparity in special teams. I touted the strength of UCLA’s special teams last week, and it was clear how impactful a good special teams unit can be, particularly contrasted against a unit as woeful as that of Oregon St. Besides the aforementioned mistakes of the Beavers (the two fumbled kickoff returns, missed field goal, and blocked punt cost them 24 points in total), Alexis Serna was also terrible on punts (no surprise there, he’s last in the nation in punting), averaging less than 29 yards per kick – though to be fair, Serna is only punting because the starting punter quit the team – helping the Bruins win the field position battle. Meanwhile, Aaron Perez pinned the Beavers inside the 20 twice, while Kai Forbath connected on two more field goals. Matthew Slater again was a force, recovering a fumble and making at least three tackles just on kickoffs. In a game where both offenses are struggling, better field position can be the deciding factor, and it was pivotal in Saturday’s contest.

So now what? The Bruins are 4-1 and 3-0 in the Pac-10. Yet it still feels like they aren’t playing good football, and fans are just waiting for other shoe to drop, also known as the annual Karl Dorrell post-October swoon. UCLA did enough things right to beat a lower-tier Oregon St. team, but improvement better be coming quick with four top-20 teams still on the schedule. Since winless Notre Dame comes to town this week, we probably won’t get a feel for how average good this team really is until October 20 when mighty #3 Cal (?!?) visits the Rose Bowl. Good enough isn’t going to cut it for much longer. The question is whether the Bruins have it in them to put together some complete performances, or if we’re going to have to put up with continued mediocrity with flashes of brilliance. Gee, can you tell how optimistic I am? [bangs head against wall] Oh right, we’re still in first place. Still in first, still in first…

AP Photos by Ryan Gardner